screw holes too close in junction box One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a . $11.99
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How to Fix a Screwy Electrical Box. I recently had to deal with a loose receptacle inside a plastic electrical box. It turned out the screw holes in . One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a . Given that the box is plastic, you have at least 3 options: Try a slightly larger screw. Fill the mounting hole(s) in the box with epoxy, drill a new .
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Sidewire (wire hooked around screw), good. Backwire (where the screw tightens a clamping plate against the wire, like a GFCI or a breaker use), great. . These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or some brownish and brittle material. I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too .Unfortunately, the mounting bracket for the new light has screw holes which are 3 1/2" apart, while the existing junction box has screw holes which are 2 3/4" apart. (And I can't use the old mounting bracket with the new light, because the way . In a couple of rooms there are outlets with stripped screws so that they are not secured to the junction box anymore. Instead of opening up the wall and replacing the box, it's way easier and faster to drill and tap the holes up to .
After the epoxy sets, I would drill out the holes to the proper size, and then either run a tap (10-24?) up into it, or just screw in the bolts. Upvote thomrose
If the stripped problem is that the electrical box mounting hole for a receptacle, light fixture or other device has become stripped, you'll need to enlarge and tap the hole for the next size larger screw and tap threads for the new screw.If me, I'd clean it all out as much as possible and fill the screw holes and surrounding areas with 2-part epoxy. Then drill new holes. You can buy switch & outlet spacers at the big box in the electrical section (there's even a picture of .Well if you can spin that screw out from the backside be awesome. Worse case I’d probably drill and tap a 6/32 screw hole off to one side. Most guys around here would just throw a self tapping screw and call it a day but the sharp edge .
One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a result, I cannot hang my smoke detector from the junction box, since the .It is only worried about the thread count. There are some other ways to ground boxes, but they don't work as well as we would like. You could drill and tap a hole for 8-32 screws if you want, but if you are using metal boxes, you will need 10-32 screws. The .Remove the 2 phillip head screws that hold bracket to box, use new bracket or move blue screw while old bracket is removed from box to red hole locations, then remount bracket, then new light , done Reply replyLooks like you can screw this box to the stud pretty easily via the box holes on the left side. Not ideal but it works. There are also new-work plastic boxes with interior-side screws built in, if you want to do it the right way use the parts within their design intent.
Either the junction box is too small or the metal plate is too large. I'm thinking I could just use a drywall anchor to attach the other end of the hinged metal plate. However, it still wouldn't be 100% flush with the ceiling because the grounding screw on the top side of the plate is making contact with the rim of the junction box (rather than .
I want to install it in a hallway that runs North/South and have the track light orient N/S. However, the screw holes in my junction box are also oriented N/S and I would need to connect the Mounting Plate (See Part D from page 4 from instructions) East/West to the junction box in order for the Track Light to be N/S.I'm installing a ceiling fan for the first time and realized the junction box installed in my ceiling is missing the mounting screws. I bought 6-32 and 8-32 screws at the recommendation of the Home Depot guy (and Google) but both screws are too small to screw in to the junction box. Do I need to buy 10-32s or a bigger size?You need to attach the light somehow. I don't see threads in the inner holes so you will have to find the right size sheet-metal screws there - too big and you hear a nice popping sound, then you really will have to get at the bolts on top of the box. The bolts are no longer than a standard pancake box - are you sure you are aligning it properly?
A cross strap is a common way to adapt the larger size down to the smaller size. Screws to 3 1/2 box and 2 3/4 fixture mounts to strap bracket. Some 2 3/4" boxes, particularly the metal styles, can allow a strap bracket to be mounted to the box and let the ends overhang the box so that screws on 3 1/2" centers can clear the outside of the box.
2) The threaded holes are too close to the back of the outlet box to accommodate the typical 1/2" liquid tite straight box connector. When mounted to the wall, there's no way to slide the conduit on and screw the compression nut down. Loosen the screws that hold it to the box so it hangs below the box enough for the other screws to be usable. It may take some fiddling with fixture screws to find just the right setting. It is a little tricky to get the screws and holes lined up when it is loose but it can be done.
Screw size for mounting junction box . . 1/4 is the easiest to use, 3/16 I've broken the heads way too often. Reply reply minutemanll . Use a 3/16 drill bit and do not over tighten because you will either snap the head or strip the hole. Reply reply TOPICS. Gaming. Valheim; Genshin Impact; Minecraft; Pokimane;I have the same situation; my fixture actually came with its own special bracket that allows the canopy to be screwed in from the sides. We also wanted to put a ceiling rose over the ratty hole in the drywall, so between the height of the rose and the setback of the box, the bracket needed to come out by 1/2" so the canopy could fit over the screwholes.Drive a straight blade screw driver into the stud side and manipulate the box. Run a drywall screw in the back of the box, 1 1/2 inch at the the longest. Why would you run a 3” screw through a 1.5” stud? And you drive screws through the box .The spring has the hole in the center, no adjustment can be made there. If you need you screw holes cheated up or down you are SoL with the spring. But with the screw design you have room to get the screw hole higher or lower than the .
I have some RLC 520 5MP cameras and was looking to get the D20 junction boxes but they seem to be out of stock here in the UK on Amazon and Reolink's website. I have had no luck with these universal junction boxes from ebay, etc as the holes are all too close together (it needs around 53mm space between them). Install it through the longer slotted holes into the existing electrical box holes. You can use the screws from the old light fixture. . I have seen that bracket being sold at the store too. To my understanding, the only mechanism that holds up this bracket to the ceiling and the light to the ceiling is the threading on the screw holes. .Looks like there’s only 2 wires coming in, which makes for replacing the box quite a bit easier, if you have attic access it would make it a breeze, if not carefully smash out the old box trying not to damage drywall too much, cut the mounting tabs off your new box, slide the wires in and wiggle it into place, put a couple screws through the side of it into the joist, and you’re done. Given that the box is plastic, you have at least 3 options: Try a slightly larger screw. Fill the mounting hole(s) in the box with epoxy, drill a new hole, and re-mount the outlet. Replace the box. If it were me, I would do number 3. Obviously, make sure the electricity to the outlet is turned off before doing any work. Edit 1 : OP says the box .
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This is an old-work box. You can see the mounting holes for the screws that swivel and tighten the plastic flag clamps, but they have been removed. It looks like the box is too close to a couple studs, so OP removed the flags and screwed it straight to the wood. It needs to be closer to the front surface of the wall, but this is otherwise OK.If anything, I put a screw into a rafter maybe half way and hang the junction box from it so it’s easy to find. I don’t snug the screw down so you’d need a tool to move it, just enough to be able to hang the box on. All plastic sockets and FCU's do. The back box can then be earthed via the 3.5mm fixing screws. There is not a facility to earth plastic light switches, and nor should there be. The earth wire is connected to the back box which in turn earths the 3.5mm fixing screws. This is pretty elementary stuff.That light fixture was too close to the wall anyway. Patch the old hole with a self-sticking drywall patch, then mount a new box to the joist about 8" further away from the wall. There are boxes that can be screwed right into the joist from below the ceiling (look for Madison Electric Products Fan and Fixture 1-Gang Gray Polycarbonate New Work .
Here we go today, I've put the junction box on and filled in the hole with gorilla silicone. I wish the junction box came with a manual. God knows how much time I wasted trying to install the screws only to discover I was screwing the wrong ones in.. Sometimes, when working on receptacles I run into stripped screw holes. These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or some brownish and brittle material. I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded (or poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the receptacle into the box.
Find screws or bolts that match the hole size I see the two screw tabs stinking in the box. Then for your mounting bracket you're either going to widen the holes with your drill so that you can use the appropriate fastener, or if the fasteners are much skinnier, you'll use a washer (or Mcguiver a washer) for your smaller fasteners.
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