ground screw in junction box site diy.stackexchange.com You can drill and tap more #10-32 ground screw holes into the junction box, if you really want to. That is the conventional size. You can use any thread pitch -32 or finer, and any .
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0 · screws for grounding metal
1 · metal junction box screws green
2 · metal junction box screw size
3 · ground wire connections in metal box
4 · basement metal junction box wiring
5 · basement metal box ground wire
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The ground wire coming with the supply cable should be securely connected to the box itself with a threaded machine screw. From there this ground should come out of the box and wire nutted to a wire from the screw .Screws that mount the box to the framing are not allowed to be used for grounding. There is a separate hole in most of the pancake boxes for a grounding screw, a 10/32 thread and you .
This has got to be a mighty large junction box! Use a small panel with the bus bars removed. If screwing a ground block to the panel works at a main/sub panel, it would have to .
In the older versions of the code, you could just tie the ground wires around a screw in the box, such as the 8-32 that is commonly inside . If you want to ground a box, the ground wire must have 6" of free length in the box, just like any other wire you might splice here. Since it's stranded wire, that is a royal PITA to put on a screw (it tends to birdcage when you .
You can drill and tap more #10-32 ground screw holes into the junction box, if you really want to. That is the conventional size. You can use any thread pitch -32 or finer, and any . These boxes can help protect your home from potentially dangerous electrical shocks when properly grounded. There are a few different ways to ground a metal junction box. One is to use screws and clamps to .
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I have a few large metal junction boxes 4"x4" by 2" deep. I am connecting 6 different 12 gauge romex cables in each box so I have a total of 6 12 gauge ground wires and .
My favorite Grounding technique for Grounding metal outlet-boxes with a Grounding wire is done using 1/4" fender-washers 1-1/4 " in diameter. I remove a 1/2 KO and assemble . A ground wire (whether in cable or separate) needs to connect to the box, normally with a -32 screw. Receptacle to metal box; This can be a wire from a -32 screw in the box to a grounding screw on the receptacle. Or it can be magic. Specifically, a high-quality receptacle - and that should include most, if not all, GFCI receptacles - can ground .
As far as ground, the ground wire needs to connect to a screw in the box, and it looks like it does. You do not need to connect the ground wire to to the switch when using a nice metal box like you have. With receptacles you .
As far as grounding the metal box, the ground clip covers it and your work is complete. It's done. Nice finish! As far as grounding the receptacle, if you want to use an el cheapo receptacle, you will need to get a 10-32 ground .
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That screw holds down the cable clamp, which is anchoring your BX cables into the box. I have seen it used for grounds but it's not ideal at all. Push the wires around in the back of the box and look for a hole that is somewhat smaller than the others. This may be tapped #10-32, if so it is specifically for a ground screw.
Then rearrange screws as needed and/or just replace the box with 4x4 or 4-11/16" deep METAL box that has a bump-out for its ground screw. Or even multiple ones. Or even multiple ones. Or if you prefer, leave the cable alone and get yourself a 10-32 drill and tap set (#21 drill), and make a few more ground screw holes. You can mount the ground bar using 8-32 or 10-32 mounting screw(s) and rely on the threads and clean metal contact between ground bar and box. If you use the existing ground screw hole, that is fine if the ground bar is designed to mount through that hole.
In that case, use a 10AWG pigtail to the box grounding screw and join the grounds to the pigtail. If using non-metallic conduit, a single 10AWG ground is all that's needed in the conduit for the two circuits sharing the conduit. That should go to the box grounding screw first, and the other grounds should then connect to it. The ground wires should all be connected to each other and to that grounding screw. In the unlikely event that your boxes don't have a pre-threaded hole there are thread-forming grounding screws available, but generally you just need to grab a bag of short 10-32 screws (you can find green ones in the electrical aisle, but they don't have to be .
While installing a hanging ceiling lamp over my kitchen sink, the ground wire on the lamp broke below the mounting bracket nipple, making it impossible to attach to the junction box ground wire. Is it necessary to attach both grounding wires, or is it OK to attach only the junction box grounding wire to the grounding screw? Unless your picture is not showing us everything, you do NOT have two ground wires! In this picture, the ground wire is pointed at by the green arrow. The bare piece of wire that I think you're seeing as another ground wire (pointed at by the red arrows) is actually (most likely) then Neutral wire, note the white insulation hiding further back in the box.
The hot, neutral and ground were separated so they wouldn't touch. I turned on the breaker and I used a non-contact tested to touch the the hot wire. I somehow pushed it down and it touched the junction box and welded itself to the box. However, the breaker didn't trip. I had to turn it off myself. I looked in the box and the box is not grounded. The box has a GFCI outlet. I then go a few feet horizontally to another junction box with a duplex outlet; repeating to the next box and the next. I have my ground wire from the breaker box, connected to the ground screw on my junction box. This is also pig-tailed to the GFCI outlet, and then to another ground wire which leads to the next box. Thank you, I’ve added a photo of the wire coming from the panel. He had me buy a 6/3 that now contains a black, red, white, and ground. Told me to connect the bare wire to the new white wire, black to black, black/red to red, and had me buy ground screws and caps. Ground wire would run down the wall and be connected directly to the ground screw of a new 3 prong outlet that will replace the old 2 prong. So, from junction box directly to outlet. From the junction box, the existing ground goes back to the panel. –
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If you're using a plastic box, it won't have a ground screw, just connect the two ground wires together. If you're using a metal box, there will be a ground screw. In this case, your idea will work just fine. You could also wire a "pig-tail".By the way you don't use a #8 to the box since this is a bond not a grounding conductor. A #10 would be good for a 60A circuit if that is what the #6 is for. To bond to the box you could pigtail and attach to the box with a standard grounding screw (green) and use a crimp connector (spade, loop or some such).
The right way, as always, is to pigtail to the metal box and to each piece of equipment, and join them in a splice; or take advantage of other means of grounding, such as in metal boxes: extra ground screws, "via screws" for switches, or . Install equipment in real junction boxes. I've done a lot of wiring and I cannot imagine how you would get a ground wire anywhere near a 2x4. Your wires (including ground) are doing one of two things: traveling inside a conduit (pipe) into a junction box, or travel inside a cable and the whole cable enters a junction box, so ground is inside the junction box too. By the way, fix that schizoid lid. On one hand, you've got a 4x4 junction box with a 2-gang mud ring that has 6-32 mounting screws in the correct positions to mount 120V outlets and switches. On the other hand, you've got a common 4x4 junction box lid that expects to attach to the corners of the box. Then the braided wire connects to the green screw on the bracket. It looks like your bracket is mounted wrong. There should be two screws from the bracket into your junction box. The bracket should be centered over the junction box. Spin the bracket around until the holes in the junction box match up with two holes in the bracket.
IMHO, pointless but certainly no harm. Except that it is not pointless if it is required by code. The usual rule is "receptacles must be grounded to metal box". If the rule is actually "receptacles must be grounded to metal box unless there is no system ground connected to the box then the wire would not be needed - but it still wouldn't hurt.. Assuming that "receptacles . The instructions say “Use the two 8-32x3/4" screws”. The junction box says “Mount fan to posts with #10-24 screws”. Is the fan just using an older spec? The fan-supplied screws are too small for the box posts, of course. Should I just get some 10-24s that fit the mounting bracket? Also, the box has two pairs for posts. Which do I attach to? If you are removing the dividers between the box as one unit then use one grounding location on the box.Run one ground from each switch and pig tail the 4 grounds from the switches,the ground screw wire,and the grounds from the branch circuits coming it.Use a crimp ring.Also if your screws have a grounding strap on them,u will know by one mounting . The junction box has no ground wire coming out of it. The instructions say that if this is the case to attach the ground wire from the light fixture to the green screw on the mounting plate. . light's mounting bracket to the metal box are what provides continuity from the grounding wire attached to the metal box through to the ground screw .
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If circuit conductors are spliced within a box or terminated on equipment within or supported by a box, all equipment grounding conductor(s) associated with any of those circuit conductors shall be connected within the box or to the box with devices suitable for the use in accordance with 250.8 and 250.148(A) through (E). If there truly is no 10-32 tapped hole in the box, then I'd remove the grounding wires from the box mounting screws, nut them to a pair of 12AWG bare pigtails, and land one pigtail on the GFCI's grounding screw and the other on a self-drilling grounding screw (Garvin GSST or equivalent, note that it must be 10-32 UNF to meet NEC 250.6, coarse .
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