my junction box has conduit but no power When i go to the garage, the outside gfi outlet has no power, inside outlet has no power, switches/light fixture does not turn on, and the connected flood light doesnt turn on. I tested the wiring splitting area and it shows no power. The conduits are 1/2" PVC conduits, in some sort of thick plastic sleeve. I am thinking I need to raise the pipes higher for a new junction box, but I need to save as much of the wiring as possible, some of the conductors inside the box are shorter like 4", so I can't raise the box too much unless I go with a half buried box again.
0 · electrical
1 · detached garage has no power
2 · What to Do When Your Circuit Breaker Is On But There Is No Power
3 · What to Do When Your Circuit Breaker Is On But
4 · No power to junction box?
5 · No power coming from ceiling junction box
6 · No Power In Junction Box?
7 · Looking for a recommendation for a Junction Box
8 · Circuit Breaker On But No Power? Here’s What To
9 · 15 Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make
I've been chasing a headlight issue for a while and just found a video on YouTube where the guy had the same problem as me and he replaced the box and the issue was .
Actually my ideal scenario is to run several schedule 40s, but to maintain proper 40% fill and CCC derating, I could run 4x12-2 through 1.5" conduit (or 3 through 1.25). I have checked the junction box that feeds this one, and it has power. My problem is that the junction box in question (the one feeding two lights) shows no power, BUT the . When i go to the garage, the outside gfi outlet has no power, inside outlet has no power, switches/light fixture does not turn on, and the connected flood light doesnt turn on. I tested the wiring splitting area and it shows no power. I can not locate a breaker in the box for the exterior outlets so I can only assume they are wired in with one of the interior lines. I only have a glow .
If your circuit breaker is on, but no power is getting to your outlet, light, or appliance, there is a simple process to go through in order to find the culprit. We’ll walk you through it. The most common reasons you may seem to . Solution: Use a cable clamp. “When using metal junction boxes, it is important to use a cable clamp to ensure the cable is securely fastened within the box and conductors will not get exposed outside of the box,” says Chris .
The good news is that there are some simple steps to follow when your circuit breaker is on, but there is no power, that should help clarify the problem. 1. Try Resetting the Breaker Anyway. First and foremost, you want to . The output from that box is into an IMO 4PDT disconnect switch which has two 1" conduit size punch-outs on both input and output. From there, the PV wires are routed into my . No power coming from ceiling junction box. The ceiling fan in my bedroom recently stopped working. I got a ladder and checked the black and white wires coming out of the .
My dad's house has conduit but no grounds pulled. Would it be advisable to pull a ground to all devices, or does the conduit serve as the grounding system? . Ground pigtails should be used to ground devices to the junction boxes unless self-grounding devices are used. . If the device has a ground screw, it has to have a ground wire that .2). Plastic Box. From what Better Homes & Gardens have seen, if you have plastic boxes, you should connect the grounding wire to the receptacles or fixtures you want to ground. But they have targeted their instructions towards .
The NEC also says that metal junction boxes must be grounded, with an unbroken wire. Grounding: NEC 250.110 Section 250.110 outlines the grounding requirements for electrical equipment, including junction boxes. Junction boxes must be grounded to provide a path for fault current to return to the source and to prevent electrical shock. Add a junction box at the end of the conduit and extend with additional conduit and new wires from that box. Note that any junction box must remain accessible, but this can include attic space with an access port. Share. Improve this answer. Follow answered Jun 7, 2022 at 18:20. isherwood . The underground cable has sunk over time (20 years) and is pulling downward on the box. The top of the box has has broken the screws and is leaning out about 3 inches from the house. The bottom of the box is still attached. The power company will take no responsibility, and claims that it is entirely my problem.
Metro-E is their underlying technology for their dedicated fiber optic lines but that's a totally different class of service (0x24 month contract + 0 installation & 0 activation fee w/ a rack mounted juniper ACX2100) vs residential fiber / rfog which OP appears to have.At my old job we would use a junction box with butyl tape for metal roofs usually. Our electricians at this new company thinks there's no point in doing that so I'm trying to find a specific pv junction box that's made for metal roofs so we don't have redicously long conduit runs on the roof and it just look terrible.Empty box is vs getting a TP box with breakers and outlets for 0. Just the breakers and outlets are 0. Seems like a no brainier to do the splice in the TP box and power it off the same breaker feeding the shed. I could do another breaker in the main for just the TP box and still do the splice for the shed in there.
First, if the geometry lines up, you can install a junction box at that point. You use a standard EMT connector (e.g. this) to enter the junction box. On the other side you enter with the standard "BX into junction box" connector. For the ground wire, you land that on the ground screw on the junction box. Both power and CCTV will be sourced from my shed. I have a trench from the shed to the pole but can't quite decide on how to complete the job. . While the interior wall is open, I want to run a wire from inside to an outdoor junction box and then a conduit nipple from that box to a generator inlet. Then, should I buy the automatic generator . When I came from my absence I noticed there was no power at all in the garage. I checked the breaker inside the house and a few were tripped which were the ones that supply power to garage. . Photo 1: Garage conduit Photo 2-3: junction box inside garage (wires straight in from conduit) Photo 4-6: House conduit and shorted wires . Attachments .The junction box where they have the signal coming in is near my shed. I want power in my shed. So I figured I could knock out two birds with one stone by running the coax from the box to my shed, then run both the coax and power from my shed, to the house. I was just wondering if I might experience signal loss running the coax next to the .
You should have a junction box on either side of the conduit fed by and feeding whatever. Take the NM-B or MC feeding the conduit and transition to THHN conductors, making sure to run a ground (green or bare copper, in the correct gauge (probably just the 12 or 14 gauge you'll be running for the outlet).
Bought a home with a detached garage 120' from the main house. Previous owner ran conduit but never connected power before he passed away. His wife and one of his friends say he ran the conduit all the way to the main house but I cannot find the other end and I .314.40 (D) Grounding. This says that all metal boxes must have a tapped hole or equivalent for grounding. I haven't seen an LB with a tapped hole for a ground screw lately. Is it because an LB is considered a raceway and not a junction box? If it's not a junction box, then making holes in the sides might actually not be the intended purpose.
Also, the water has not infiltrated the actual meter box. But its inside the extension conduit that comes up from the ground. My thought was to drill a small hole in that conduit and inject it with foam, thus prevent the water .the second major differentiator between plastic and metal boxes as far as switches and Outlets are concerned is that plastic boxes have a 2 inch by 4 in footprint, which quite frankly is a little bit easier to work with for tucking the . The output from that box is into an IMO 4PDT disconnect switch which has two 1" conduit size punch-outs on both input and output. From there, the PV wires are routed into my 6000xp inverter. I'm looking for a junction box that has that 2" punch-out for the 1-1/2" conduit input with two output punch-out's to handle the 1" conduit.
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As far the actual junction box question: You can certainly have junction boxes in between sections of conduit, and switch between wire types. You can also have (but probably doesn't make sense here) cable inside without conduit and transition to wires inside conduit for the outside run, or conduit inside with wires and transition to direct-bury .And all of our outlets are grounded via metal junction boxes. Connected by EMT conduit, which is grounded by the main copper water line, that feeds into the house. I plan on painting the entire exposed basement ceiling. . back to the panel and that connection helping to automatically trip the circuit breaker or a GFCI device turning the power .The Power is run to the garage via an underground conduit, which I believe is standard metal electrical conduit. I recently pulled new low voltage (ethernet) cable thru secondary conduit that was orignally for Alarm wiring purposes, and noticed that water had infiltrated that conduit. Im assuming the conduit had corroded underground.
I think for my situation I probably would have done 2nd option in my post (NM-B from panel to junction box still in basement > THWN outside, in the EMT conduit up the house, and into the attic > junction box and switch to NM-B for the rest of the runs inside dry locations.)
There’s a junction box on the brick wall outside the home, and power enters the outlet from the box. I figure there’s a proper weather proof junction box suitable for coaxial and power that I can use outside, but I’m having trouble finding one. Inside, my plan is to replace the 1 gang junction box in the built-in bookcase with a 2 gang box.Power Conduit Not Working/Providing Power To Connected Devices Question It's practically underneath the pylon (which is powered by and wired to an ample generator) so it's definitely within range and properly connected via wire to what it's supposed to be powering, but they're still not powering on. It has 3 wires to connect to the junction box. The issue I have is that the wire is not long enough (about 4-6 inches short) to reach the junction box used by the old oven. So I was planning on connecting a wire to the old junction box and add another junction box closer to the oven and connect the wire from the oven to that junction box. The drop-in stove was hardwired and the wiring comes up out of a hole in the floor about 3" from the wall. The old stove was connected to a junction box with 12 gauge wire in flexible conduit, but the junction box was just floating around on the floor behind the cabinets--it wasn't fastened in place on the floor or to the wall.
The existing wires have very little slack / can't be done easily inside a junction box, plus I didn't have the junction boxes at the time and had a wife that was super anxious to the see the project working, and the breaker back on. She would have flipped if I had to make a run to a store at that point. We POC'd it, so now I'm correcting the issue.
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my junction box has conduit but no power|No power to junction box?