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.91If the connection is poor enough, this could generate enough heat to create a hazard. Arcing is also a possibility. Containing connections in a fire resistant box makes the entire system safer. Splicing wires together and hiding that splice inside a .Your other option is to run a new circuit to the new box and de-energize the circuit to the old box and mark the source wires as "NOT IN USE" at your panel in which case I believe you could cover it over. If there are live wires in the box, sooner or later you will need to get to the box again, which you can't do if you've covered it over!
This is a pre-existing box where the same cable was spliced to a different one going to my old main panel. The old cable has been removed. I used "polaris" connectors that were very expensive - more than 100 dollars for the three pictured above.
By the time you cut the cable and put the ends in the new box, you might have 1/2 inch of wire to play with. What I would do is tie something to the cut cable and pull the cable out of the old/further away box and pull a new longer cable though. This should give you plenty of wire/cable in the new box to connect the new outlet up. use a Tyco inline splice to avoid a second box just for the splice, but those splices are untrusted, so generally Code doesn't want you doing that unless there's just no other option. Even the Tyco splice consumes some length, and it doesn't let you tee. last resort, put 2 boxes at least 18" apart, and add a short length between the boxes. It is acceptable to splice additional wire to a feeder, as long as that feeder is not an unfused conductor (service entry). Keep in mind that improperly installed splice can become a real nightmare. It might be better to try and raise the new panel up if there are no obstructions rather than try extend the feeder. I'm not certain that electrical code will accept that particular box as a junction box. You haven't mentioned the gauge and quantity of conductors needing to be spliced. Another answer describes box fill calculations for 12/2/2 being joined with a couple of devices. Assuming that you're also working with NM-B ("Romex") cable, but in the 12/2 .
The junction box at the end of the run is a 90 that comes straight out of the ground approximately 6" up in the middle of the lawn. The owner wants to power a shed/garage ~10 ft away from the current J-box, and wants to BURY the current junction site. What are my options to HIDE this splice/junction point?Are there special type splices needed for this situation or are wire nuts allowed? All splices will be done correctly and taped. A master electrician and electrical engineer have said it is legal but a NEC reference, page and paragraph, would be helpful incase my inspector objects. Thanks in advance for your response. Don Plus fixtures (e.g., lights, ceiling fans) often need to be removed to access ceiling junction boxes. But the key is that normal access - e.g., replace a receptacle or switch, patch in a new cable to a junction box to power something else, etc. - .
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If the connection is poor enough, this could generate enough heat to create a hazard. Arcing is also a possibility. Containing connections in a fire resistant box makes the entire system safer. Splicing wires together and hiding that splice inside a .Your other option is to run a new circuit to the new box and de-energize the circuit to the old box and mark the source wires as "NOT IN USE" at your panel in which case I believe you could cover it over. If there are live wires in the box, sooner or later you will need to get to the box again, which you can't do if you've covered it over! This is a pre-existing box where the same cable was spliced to a different one going to my old main panel. The old cable has been removed. I used "polaris" connectors that were very expensive - more than 100 dollars for the three pictured above. By the time you cut the cable and put the ends in the new box, you might have 1/2 inch of wire to play with. What I would do is tie something to the cut cable and pull the cable out of the old/further away box and pull a new longer cable though. This should give you plenty of wire/cable in the new box to connect the new outlet up.
use a Tyco inline splice to avoid a second box just for the splice, but those splices are untrusted, so generally Code doesn't want you doing that unless there's just no other option. Even the Tyco splice consumes some length, and it doesn't let you tee. last resort, put 2 boxes at least 18" apart, and add a short length between the boxes. It is acceptable to splice additional wire to a feeder, as long as that feeder is not an unfused conductor (service entry). Keep in mind that improperly installed splice can become a real nightmare. It might be better to try and raise the new panel up if there are no obstructions rather than try extend the feeder. I'm not certain that electrical code will accept that particular box as a junction box. You haven't mentioned the gauge and quantity of conductors needing to be spliced. Another answer describes box fill calculations for 12/2/2 being joined with a couple of devices. Assuming that you're also working with NM-B ("Romex") cable, but in the 12/2 .
The junction box at the end of the run is a 90 that comes straight out of the ground approximately 6" up in the middle of the lawn. The owner wants to power a shed/garage ~10 ft away from the current J-box, and wants to BURY the current junction site. What are my options to HIDE this splice/junction point?Are there special type splices needed for this situation or are wire nuts allowed? All splices will be done correctly and taped. A master electrician and electrical engineer have said it is legal but a NEC reference, page and paragraph, would be helpful incase my inspector objects. Thanks in advance for your response. Don
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